Does anyone have these boards for sale, fully assembled?
if NOT, does anyone have a PART #/LINK to the socket that is to be used as part of the "pass through" on the shifter"
ST MOBO->ST Buffered Board->SHIFTER
I need to know a specific 40 pin socket that will have long enough legs to go through the PCB and into the shifter socket below.
Thanks!
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Thanks :)
It helps build a picture where our "good traffic" is coming from..
Thanks :)
RGB2HDMI atari ST buffered board
Re: RGB2HDMI atari ST buffered board
You order those PCB as thin as you can. Either 0,8mm or 1mm. And then a normal turned pinned socket.
EDIT: I will search for the thread with the pcb.... wait a sec...
EDIT2: Here is the link. choose buffered for long cables.
EDIT3: One of these will probably work.
EDIT: I will search for the thread with the pcb.... wait a sec...
EDIT2: Here is the link. choose buffered for long cables.
EDIT3: One of these will probably work.
Re: RGB2HDMI atari ST buffered board
Most turned pin sockets will be okay. For this style of board with the fat holes, you're looking for a socket that has these fat bits of metal below the plastic:
Those will pop down into the holes, and then you drop a dab of solder into each from the underside, leaving the pins to stick into the shifter socket in your ST. The socket in that picture is a Mill-Max 110-47-640-41-001000. I can't swear to its quality, but it's an example of something compatible that I found pretty easily on Mouser. Here's what the spec sheet shows for this particular socket (dimensions in inches):
As you can see, the fat section is 0.055 inches = ~1.4 mm. As standard PCBs are 2.36 mm thick, this will leave you a 0.96 mm well for your solder, and 2.2 mm of pin to stick into the socket on your board. This will work, although it would be wise to use another turned pin socket on the board, as that will create a more snug fit.
EDIT: Ah, I see @DoG has suggested ordering a thinner PCB. Probably a good idea. I used standard thickness board on my Stacy build, and so far so good, but if I were doing it over again, I'd take his advice.
- 110-47-640-41-001000_SPL.jpg (26.73 KiB) Viewed 1792 times
Those will pop down into the holes, and then you drop a dab of solder into each from the underside, leaving the pins to stick into the shifter socket in your ST. The socket in that picture is a Mill-Max 110-47-640-41-001000. I can't swear to its quality, but it's an example of something compatible that I found pretty easily on Mouser. Here's what the spec sheet shows for this particular socket (dimensions in inches):
- 110-xx-xxx-41-001000_600x600_0.png (40.37 KiB) Viewed 1792 times
As you can see, the fat section is 0.055 inches = ~1.4 mm. As standard PCBs are 2.36 mm thick, this will leave you a 0.96 mm well for your solder, and 2.2 mm of pin to stick into the socket on your board. This will work, although it would be wise to use another turned pin socket on the board, as that will create a more snug fit.
EDIT: Ah, I see @DoG has suggested ordering a thinner PCB. Probably a good idea. I used standard thickness board on my Stacy build, and so far so good, but if I were doing it over again, I'd take his advice.