Should exxos design a new CT60 PSU?

[exxos]

Well that's annoying, the Falcon switch area is raised up over the ST one, so moving it upwards means theres literally nothing holding it together at that point

Problem is the raised bit makes not simple printing either.. Time for a rethink.....

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[alexh]

One of the features of the CT60PSU r2025 was it worked "with and without CT6x". I never tried it without but that would be an interesting feature to retain if possible.

[exxos]

One of the features of the CT60PSU r2025 was it worked "with and without CT6x". I never tried it without but that would be an interesting feature to retain if possible.

I don't think it would be a problem anyway..

One thing I was thinking yesterday was the actual Falcon power connector would need to be plugged in for the CT60, but not CT60e.. So it makes the connector redundant on the CT60e. But I don't really want to do two different versions either.. It may just end up being a connector flapping around not connected to anything in case of the CT60e.

Or have a connector on a power supply to different cables depending on what is to be connected which may be a better way..

But the problem is space is at a huge premium power supply module is going to take up the whole IDE area alone and actual power supply board is probably going to have to go in between the power supply and the floppy drive..

I did think about trying to build the power supply board upside down so it fitted underneath the actual power module.. But that involves two circuit boards.. And ventilation would not be great in that setup as everything would be stacked and there isn't enough height to space anything out.. It is why the power supply board is just going to have to go to the right of the IDE area.. Not totally happy about that idea either because there isn't really any support for the board to be there.. But that's probably the least worst option currently that I can think of..

[exxos]

Finding the power modules is near impossible. Everywhere out of stock until next year

From one of my UK brokers managed to find some stock in the USA, but thats like £60 gone in postage and VAT right off the bat But got 3 on order. Its enough to build up 3 prototype PSUs.

Next I need to 3D print my first test switch mounting bracket. The problem is, there's basically no room for the mains connections before it hits the CT60e ATX connector So it looks like a PCB is only going to be possible to physically get it all to fit. But still thinking about options.

[PhilC]

@exxos @alexh @HigashiJun do you need to do a plug and play solution with the ATX socket or will a soldered flying lead solution suite? IE remove ATX socket and use say 2.5mm single core wires to the PSU?

[exxos]

@exxos @alexh @HigashiJun do you need to do a plug and play solution with the ATX socket or will a soldered flying lead solution suite? IE remove ATX socket and use say 2.5mm single core wires to the PSU?

I don't think people would start removing the ATX connector and soldering wires instead. Even so, the mains terminals would still end up being pretty close to the CT60 anyway, and a squash up of mains and ATX power.

Also the mains connections basically are at PCB level as well. So removing the ATX connector wouldn't free up that room anyway.

A secondary problem will be the mains switch.. the CT60e header pins are very close to where the mains switch will go..

[exxos]

Try and print out the 3D bracket tomorrow, which holds the switch and connector and just see if I'm in the right ballpark of everything aligning, there what I'm thinking is having a vertical piece on the bracket in between the back end of the switch and connector in between that and the CT60.

But the idea would be to have a vertical piece of plastic as an insulator but also have some high voltage rubber inserted on it and not just depend on the plastic at all because the high voltage rubber can withstand thousands of volts while only being something like one millimeter thick. so if it had that enclosed with plastic either side, even though the gap is technically small, the insulation resistance should be more than adequate to protect everything.

The question remains whether to go with wiring or a PCB for the actual switch to connector wiring. Stripping wise and getting in the right length is annoying so PCBs are easier but the installation resistance on the copper tracks isn't that great. I do need to add a fuse in the mix near the socket as well which further complicates things in particular if it was done as loose wiring. A PCB would probably need to be potted but the solder points would need extra potting afterwards, which is getting into a lot of faffing about..