exxos blog - random goings on

[exxos]

:WTF:

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ ... 1e42FUyegd

Hope shipping to UK isn't £1,641.25 :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

[rubber_jonnie]

Neat. Can it do SMD? Can't tell from the vid and description.

I've seen videos of it (or similar) doing SOT23 type packages. I think you can get different tips for stuff. But I would probably use paste for that stuff anyway.

The first potential issue I see is that it does not specify from what I can tell, what size of solder you have to use. Generally I am using 0.7mm... But will that go through the tube with the type of drive it has...

All the listings are literally all over the place. Give different model numbers and give no clues what they represent. Cannot see minimum solder thickness either.. It is always a bit of a nightmare trying to find specifications for China stuff :(

Sounds really quite difficult to get specs. I also wonder how the solder behaves when it's being squeezed through the feed rollers. Seems to be fine, but as you say, the thickness etc makes a difference to how it'll feed.

[rubber_jonnie]

:WTF:

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ ... 1e42FUyegd

Hope shipping to UK isn't £1,641.25 :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

Wow, that shipping effectively doubles the price!! Have a look on Amazon, that's where I got my re-flow machine.

[sporniket]

hum, just searched "open source soldering robot" on google, got that :

[exxos]

hum, just searched "open source soldering robot" on google, got that :

Interesting. Might be worth a go considering price of a proper one. I'd have to see what's involved converting Gerber to gcode. Probably using absolute possitioning might be almost simple.

[exxos]

Spied these 3D printers on evilbay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394771743273

Thinking it might be worth getting one with the intention of fitting a soldering iron to it.

I'm not sure how well the head will work pulling solder though as I use 0.7mm. Though all the printer crap I've collected so far, I do have a spring loaded bearing which should grip the solder.

I'd probably have to bypass or hack the firmware assuming I'm not using the head heater sensor.

I'll also have to study the Gerber data to see if there is any simple way to convert to gcode.

[exxos]

Did a simple 3 VIA test.

Capture.PNG

Code: Select all

%
M48
M72
T01C0.03937
%
T01
X5050Y5050
X15050Y5050
X25050Y5050
M30

The first fire should be at location 0,0, then 2.54,0 then 5.08,0

I'm not sure where it gets 5050,5050 from. Obviously the X coordinate is increasing by 100 each time, so 100=2.54mm :shug: I assume it must be in mills.

Really need some way of exporting this into millimetres really..

EDIT

GERBER_RS274X_33MM apparently is the one to use but is even more confusing...

Code: Select all

%
M48
M71
T01C1.000
%
T01
X1283Y1283
X3823Y1283
X6363Y1283
M30

EDIT2:

Ah ok so 3823 - 1283 = 2540. So 2.54mm. Must be x 1000 for some reason :shrug:

I guess I could move the heads to the physical location on the print bed and pretty much just dump the gerber data into Gcode data.

[exxos]

Right "Friend A.I" wrote the first conversion script.

Starts like:

Code: Select all

X1283Y1283
X3823Y1283
X6363Y1283

Now exports:

Code: Select all

G92 X1.283 Y1.283
G92 X3.823 Y1.283
G92 X6.363 Y1.283

This will need to use absolute positioning , but the head should theoretically now moved to the three via locations.

What I will do tomorrow is see if I can get it to exclude some "solder" on those 3 locations :) as to how much solder is actually used the solder joint is somewhat of a mystery :lol: I guess I will just set an arbitrary number of 3mm or something for now.

[exxos]

Does anyone know how to zero the printer's current position?

Supposedly it is done with

Code: Select all

G92 X0 Y0 Z0 

but the display on the printer still shows whatever location number it is currently at.

For example I home the printer and it actually homes outside of the physical print bed. That in itself is not actually a problem, but I want to move XY to 50,50 and then reset that to 0,0 on the display.

There also seems to be M206 but nothing I tried seems to reset the actual displayed coordinates :(

[Icky]

Wouldn't there be a need to glue or fix some components down before being soldered otherwise they would move.