The Cosmic Puppet's Universe.

[Cosmic Puppet]

[Cosmic Puppet]

So I think I accidentally found out what adapter goes with my Bush set-top box. Seen the same model adapter branded with the Goodmans logo too so was probably used on several devices of the time.

Screenshot 2022-09-04 152741.jpg

It says Input 0.2A.

On the one I bought as a replacement it says Input 0.6A Max

20220904_151945crop.jpg

I just want to make sure this can't cause any damage to the unit?

I really dislike how a lot of modern devices require you to sort out your own power supply. I mean couldn't people potentially cause fire with overheating adapters?

[PhilC]

@Cosmic Puppet looks fine to me, just a higher power output than the old one.

[Cosmic Puppet]

@Cosmic Puppet looks fine to me, just a higher power output than the old one.

Thanks. I knew the output would be okay as I asked earlier. I just never noticed the input amps difference and have no idea what that means.
If it's okay it's okay though. 8-)

[mrbombermillzy]

Thanks. I knew the output would be okay as I asked earlier. I just never noticed the input amps difference and have no idea what that means.
If it's okay it's okay though. 8-)

The main 'things' you want to watch out for in a PSU are:

- Output Voltage should be as rated by the device.
- Amperage should be sufficient for what you are running, but if its over it doesnt really matter; only UNDER matters as it wont be enough power for the device.

Next to the voltage output value should be either 'DC' or a straight line with dotted dashes (this is a symbol for DC) or 'AC' wording and/or a sine wave symbol. These need to be adhered to; you dont really want the wrong one.

Finally, you need to have the PSU socket connections either negative core or positive core. Make sure these are the right way round for a DC PSU (the symbol for these are a line with a semi circle around it with the middle or outer arc having a negative or positive sign accordingly; this centre is your core polarity.

Hope this is easy enough to follow. :)

[Cosmic Puppet]

Thanks. Yeah, all those points have been adhered too. 8-)

[Cosmic Puppet]

I tried to write music on this before I embarked upon reclaiming my Atari composition system which had worked so well.
I could never finish anything with Logic due to its linear nature. However, I did find the improved editing and quantise resolution advantageous.

The idea was to compose in Notator and then finish up in Logic on the PC when the geography of my compositions were complete.

Problem with this idea is that Logic on the PC ran on XP inside Virtual Box and no XP Driver is available for my new keyboard. I sounds awful when I try to play things through it with no designated driver.

I can however import midi files and edit them and then put them back in Notator.

This made me have a look at Logic on the Atari. I hadn't realised that the Atari version of Logic has the high pulses per quarter note that the PC version has. (Double what Notator's quantise has.) When I converted all my Logic PC stuff over to Notator, some of them play badly due to this.

Given that I can't use Emagic's log 3 with Unitor N, my best option would be to purchase C-Lab Combiner and a Logic cartridge allowing me to use both of these programs. This will mean no drivers needed EVER! and no distractions from using a computer with the internet on it.

All I need to do now is find this hardware.

If anyone has these in good cosmetic condition I'm willing to pay a lot for them.

P.s. I spent the whole weekend composing like the old days. This is why I'm sticking with EmuTOS 1.0.1 for now since everything works well. I would like to help troubleshoot issues with the latest version at some point but need to do music for now.

Hello everyone. Sorry I've gone dark, just had to withdraw. The last few years has left me feeling a little traumatised. Lots of friendships and ideas wiped out...

Tone.

[JezC]

Hi,

Not sure it's an immediate solution...but you might be able to use the version of Notator designed to work with the Log 3 as the dongle (v3.21 IIRC).

Then you could see if you can "swap" (or sell/buy) the Unitor N for the Unitor II & wouldn't need the Combiner at all (they're pretty rare)?

I think that generally a Unitor II comes up reasonably often on popular auction sites so that may be the easier part...but I think that the Log 3 is much less common.

There's a slim chance that I have a spare in storage but it'll be the end of the month before I can try to dig it out.

Anyway, the above might give you other options to pursue even if I don't have any to spare.

Good luck!

[exxos]

Hello everyone. Sorry I've gone dark, just had to withdraw. The last few years has left me feeling a little traumatised. Lots of friendships and ideas wiped out...

:awwww: was starting to wonder where you vanished to.

[Cosmic Puppet]

I need to check in when I get back to the PC. Struggling to read the tiny writing on my phone.