Repairing a ST Book.

[alexh]

Excellent work. I look forward to reading about how you repair the case and if you're going to attempt any enhancements.

[AndresPlazaR]

If I may request something while work is still in progress, it would be a scan of the bottom side and the top side, as it seems that the motheboard would fits inside a A4 scanner ?

So... the scanning is pretty bad (that, thinking about, it is reasonable, because the focus is for a flat surface, not a 3D model). So I also took pictures of both sides; you pick.

All 4 are attached here.

Andres.

[sporniket]

Thanks a lot, I took them all

I believe that a "STBOOK" category in the "MOTHERBOARD REVISIONS" subforum would be a suitable home for the very nice pair of pictures you made, if an admin could create it ?

[AndresPlazaR]

OK, finally some more progress.

I categorize the case problems in 4 categories:

1. Missing pivots in the closing latch and back door for ports. This is what I'm talking about:

   

   s_PXL_20240801_143604316.jpg (334.71 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

   

   s_PXL_20240801_143627705.jpg (324.9 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

   

   s_PXL_20240801_143647351.jpg (252.47 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

   Because there is no much space to attach new pivots/hinges, I will try to recreate full pieces and 3D print them.
2. Cracks and detached parts. For these, I used thin (not gel) cyanoacrylate super glue.
3. Broken parts that will have high mechanical stress (bronze inserts for hinges) or missing pieces that created a gap. For these, I used grey JB Weld Steel Reinforced Epoxy.

I'm still working on creating the 3D models of the parts for (1); that will take some time.

For (2), these are the before pictures:

s_PXL_20240614_013846336.jpg (255.85 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

s_PXL_20240614_013904130.MP.jpg (376.98 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

and these are the after pictures:

s_PXL_20240728_145450239.MP.jpg (405.35 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

s_PXL_20240728_145605873.MP.jpg (354.29 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

s_PXL_20240728_145623165.jpg (379.14 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

(the pin that press the sleep button was partially attached to the case, so also glued that).

Something I was told, to clean cyanoacrylate before it sets, is to use acetone. Before using it for cleaning, I tested it in the bottom of the case and, if you rubber it strongly and/or too much, the paint will start to come out. So, a word of warning: if you want to use it, it has to be gentle and on one pass.

For (3), I first used the cyanoacrylate to attach the bronze inserts and plastic around it. This is a before picture:

s_PXL_20240728_144415653.MP.jpg (487.34 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

and this is after attaching those inserts:

s_PXL_20240728_144921094.MP.jpg (380.31 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

You cannot afford to have any of the epoxy enter the holes for the screws, so I cut some cotton swabs and "screw" them to close the holes; they fit perfectly:

s_PXL_20240728_145952812.jpg (252.36 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

Then mixed the epoxy as per the instructions and carefully filled the holes and missing parts of the support. It will be messy but do't worry: the epoxy takes a few hours to set, so you have time to cleanup. Of course, don't go crazy putting the glue anyways.

I used disposable wooden utensils to mix, apply and cleanup excess of epoxy. As I mentioned, when you apply the epoxy it will get in messy: the first thing you have to do is to level it (so, when it dries, it is not above the level of the top of the bronze inserts) and then clean very well on top of the bronze inserts/around the cotton swabs. Then, and only then, unscrew the cotton swab and try to not to touch it again, so no epoxy goes inside the holes.

Also, calculate how far you can go with the epoxy to not to obstruct the space where the hinge will be. Theoretically you can sand it (with a Dremel tool, for example) if there is some excess, but I did not had to do that.

I followed the same process in both sides (although only one was broken, but I wanted to strengthen the other one, to avoid problems in the future. After waiting 24 hours, this is how they look now:

s_PXL_20240730_215253780.jpg (474.42 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

s_PXL_20240801_120950296.jpg (388.27 KiB) Viewed 1064 times

As I mentioned, there is a small missing piece that I will also fix with epoxy, but I haven't done it yet.

That is for now.

Andres.

[DrJansen]

Great project and nice guide!
Your posts helped me a lot getting my device back to life.
I am just in the same situation and was trying to bring my ST Book back to life (was sitting in the shelf for more than 10 years).
First of all, I´ve got absolutely no Atari-experience.

My ST Book is in a good condition, only one hinge has a small failure.

I´ve tried booting it up by sending 9,6v directly to the battery contacts, as I wasnt able to find the orig. charger. No signs of life, completely dead.
Then I´ve revised / changed ALL caps inculding the ones in the display (which were leaking already).
It starts and the display works perfeclty fine. But the HDD isn´t spinning and I am getting the "bombs".
The hdd is dead - I´ve opened it up, fixed the stuck head, but it´s not turning on / spinning, even with a external usb adapter with more power.

My question right now to go on: I´ve got a CF to IDE Adapter but as I´ve got no Atari Computer, how can I install / make partitions, etc. to get the cf card ready on a windows computer? I´ve googled for several hours but cant find a guide for someone "atari-unexperienced" like me.
Then I would think, I could perhaps get rid off the bombs-problem - or have to change the chip as you did.

I would also be willing to sell it "as is" but would really like to see it running on my desk

Thanks in advance and greetings from Germany!
BR
Jan

[AndresPlazaR]

Hi Jan!

It is great to hear that my info was helpful.

So, you don't need an external computer to create the partitions in the CF: install the adapter (instead of the HDD) and the CF card to it, and the ST Book should boot with that, and you should be able to access a P: drive (that is part of the ROM) with several utilities, including BOOKFMT.PRG, that allows you to partition and format the HDD/CF. After rebooting you should be able to access the new partitions.

Now, I don't know (I don't think?) if you can access the Atari partitions directly in Windows (I'm a Linux person, so there are a lot of utilities to do that from there).

If, even after swapping the HDD for the CF, you still the bombs, I would suggest to change the ROM chip; that worked for me.

What hinge of your ST Book has a failure, and what kind of failure?

Just curious: how much are you thinking to ask for your ST Book?

Take care,

Andres.

[AndresPlazaR]

Quick update before I go on vacation:

stbook.jpg (323.46 KiB) Viewed 906 times

I put together the ST Book almost completely: the only two parts missing are the back cover of the screen (it is already repaired) and the closing latch (I need to create a version in CAD and 3D print it).

I'm trying to connect the ST Book to my Phoenix via parallel port, so I can transfer programs to it. Tomorrow I will get the supplies to create the cable (I guess is somewhat special) and test it; hopefully it will happen before Sunday (leaving for vacation). I will post results here, of course.

Andres.

[DrJansen]

Hi Andreas,

thanks for your answer.

I took the 256mb CF Card and Adapter from a working 286 Laptop and placed it inside the St Book and still Had the bombs. I thought, that the TOS and Driver has to be on the Drive First, before getting it properly working.

Then i really think the next step mandatory is changing the Chip.
Would you be willing to sell me one with a proper TOS on it?

Are your interested in my St Book? Its Just a crack in the hinge Cover, Like yours, but No Missing plastic.
I have absolutely No Idea what this little Thing ist worth right now in this condition. What did you pay for yours when i May ASK you?

Looking Forward Hearing from you
Br Jan

Hi Jan!

It is great to hear that my info was helpful.

So, you don't need an external computer to create the partitions in the CF: install the adapter (instead of the HDD) and the CF card to it, and the ST Book should boot with that, and you should be able to access a P: drive (that is part of the ROM) with several utilities, including BOOKFMT.PRG, that allows you to partition and format the HDD/CF. After rebooting you should be able to access the new partitions.

Now, I don't know (I don't think?) if you can access the Atari partitions directly in Windows (I'm a Linux person, so there are a lot of utilities to do that from there).

If, even after swapping the HDD for the CF, you still the bombs, I would suggest to change the ROM chip; that worked for me.

What hinge of your ST Book has a failure, and what kind of failure?

Just curious: how much are you thinking to ask for your ST Book?

Take care,

Andres.

[mikro]

I'm trying to connect the ST Book to my Phoenix via parallel port, so I can transfer programs to it.

In case you are unaware, there is a much easier way to transfer programs via parallel port: https://joy.sophics.cz/parcp/parcpusb.html (still available for purchase).

[AndresPlazaR]

In case you are unaware, there is a much easier way to transfer programs via parallel port: https://joy.sophics.cz/parcp/parcpusb.html (still available for purchase).

Hi Mikro!

Yes, I saw that and looks very interesting. But right now is the chicken-or-egg problem: in the ST Book I only have access to the ST Trans utility, so I need the cable and another ST computer. Later, when I can load other software, including the PARCP utility, I will get this device.

Thanks!

Andres.