exxos blog - random goings on

[Badwolf]

But I have never tried anything that slow before, the defaults were around 5500 mm / min in software. The filament that slow would take like a 5min parts more like a hour :roll:

I was thinking more in terms of the print head speed. 30mm/s is generally slow enough that even a shabby hotend can keep up (I know it's ultimately limiting the extruder's feed rate, but it's an easier figure to compare/tweak IMO).

Leave the extruder limit as it was an change the print speeds in the slicer to not exceed 30mm/s in any condition.

This is, of course, assuming you don't have an outrageous nozzle size (although I think you said you were on the 'standard' 0.4mm).

Your 50x50x1mm block should take about half an hour at those speeds. Like I say: slow, but you shouldn't need to go slower & it's only for testing, with luck.

BW

NB: a 50x50x1 block is mostly external shell, so will be slow no matter your top speed.

[exxos]

@Badwolf True, but the i3 is pretty much the same printer and that can keep up fine. so not sure why the FF is having such issues.


I ramped to 110% extrusion and it is solid now.. I think it was a bit too much as the heads were banging on the print at times.. so will increase the speed a bit more and take down to 108% this time...

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Trying to update my i3 firmware, its not having it all :roll:

EDIT:

Now looks like it's bricked :roll:

[Icky]

Trying to update my i3 firmware, its not having it all :roll:

EDIT:

Now looks like it's bricked :roll:

You need to build a Pink Panda printer @exxos

[exxos]

You need to build a Pink Panda printer @exxos

The time i've spent on both these printers I could have built several pandas!

[Badwolf]

@Badwolf True, but the i3 is pretty much the same printer and that can keep up fine. so not sure why the FF is having such issues.

Could be a shitty hotend, could be a blocked nozzle, could be a PTFE-lined throat that's gone too hot (240C is about the limit for Teflon tube). Either way, slowing down is the get-out-of-gaol card.

I ramped to 110% extrusion and it is solid now.. I think it was a bit too much as the heads were banging on the print at times.. so will increase the speed a bit more and take down to 108% this time...

That looks like good news! :-)

Now looks like it's bricked :roll:

That's less good. :-(

I doubt it's fatal, but I don't have a genuine i3 so don't know much about the board. Most are just wrappers around an AT2560, aren't they? Glorified Arduino Megas. Probably fixable with a few jump wires, but I'd concentrate on one machine at a time, if I were you.

BW

[exxos]

I doubt it's fatal, but I don't have a genuine i3 so don't know much about the board. Most are just wrappers around an AT2560, aren't they? Glorified Arduino Megas. Probably fixable with a few jump wires, but I'd concentrate on one machine at a time, if I were you.

Been hunting for ages four firmware for this old i3. Slim pickings and the ones online don't compile or work..

Just tried this one..

https://github.com/TheThief/Marlin/tree/CTC_i3_2.0

Just seems to brick the printer.

This one seemed just the job, but complains about version mismatches or some crap..

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4475743

The only one that ever seems to work is the original 1.0.0 firmware. I guess it's no big deal.

Flash forge I'm printing out various squares to see at what point print starts to look solid again. I don't see why the hot end would be so bad on this printer compared to the i3 as they look pretty much identical to me as do most other hot ends. :shrug:

[Badwolf]

Flash forge I'm printing out various squares to see at what point print starts to look solid again. I don't see why the hot end would be so bad on this printer compared to the i3 as they look pretty much identical to me as do most other hot ends. :shrug:

It's mostly about the throat. A really high quality one will be all metal, precision engineered and able to put up with temperatures of 280C or better.

Most aren't that. Most will be rough as a Guinness hangover. To mitigate that, you stuff a Teflon liner down the middle. Solves a lot of problems. But that liner can get old, tear, melt (if it gets over about 240C) and generally gum the throat up.

Equally some have crappy heat breaks causing semi-molten filament to back up on a long print, later solidify and restrict the flow. The filament used on it in the past might have had impurities and things are stuck down there. I had one terrible filament from Amazon that I would have to stick a bit of wire up the nozzle every half an hour to free the damned thing up.

If the hotends are compatible between the two, you could try swapping them over?

60mm/s should be sustainable for a decent hotent/extruder combination. 30mm/s for a shonky eBay one. Try 45? Reasonable compromise.

(You may be able to tell I've been fighting my 3D printer too these last couple of days :P)

BW.

[exxos]

@Badwolf I don't think mine doesn't have that Teflon tube.. Its just what I posted images of before.. Is there a good brand for nozzles ?

Even at slower speeds its still slipping I think. So I be spent hours looking for a different extruder assembly. I've ordered one of these

https://winsinn.com/winsinn-dual-gear-e ... -filament/

This one being metal not plastic. Better grip for the PLA and has a screw to adjust the tension.

s-l1600.png

[Badwolf]

@Badwolf I don't think mine doesn't have that Teflon tube.. Its just what I posted images of before.. Is there a good brand for nozzles ?

Even at slower speeds its still slipping I think. So I be spent hours looking for a different extruder assembly. I've ordered one of these

https://winsinn.com/winsinn-dual-gear-e ... -filament/

This one being metal not plastic. Better grip for the PLA and has a screw to adjust the tension.

I was talking about the hotend and the throat rather than the extruder, although it's possible it's either.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184447563427

That's the bit that has the teflon tube in it and is, bar the nozzle itself, ultimately the bit that tends to get gummed up.

Of course if the extruder itself is really crap then you'll get similar results. It did almost look as though your driving wheel and the idler were touching at times -- that'd obviously take pressure off the filament, so you could be onto something.

How much can you half-inch off the i3?

BW.

[exxos]

How much can you half-inch off the i3?

Don't get what you mean ?


Forgot about those tubes in the nozzle...

The insights look fine the outside is a bit third book to the expected I guess.. I might just get some new ones while messing about anyway..

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