exxos's Atari, Amiga & retro forum

@dml id use the et4000ax first, try the T4 driver.

Then I think the Hercules may be an et4000w32i if you're lucky

Thanks! I'll try them in that order :) Yep it will be nice if the Diamond card works. It has some very poor looking rework on the topside which I intend to fix but I'll test it before any changes. Hopefully its both OK and can be used.


I'm looking at fitting the Pi Pico to the ROM programmer just now. The type of Pi I have is a little different from the one shown - it has the 3 debug pins at the end and I see there are header holes on the programmer for those 3 pins. Presumably those should be connected?

I'll take a look through the github repo again before moving (been very busy this week to sit and read anything) but it would be good to know that I don't need a special Pi variant before figuring that out too late...

You don't need to connect the three pins on the end, just the two lots of 20ish pins.

PhilC wrote: 28 Jun 2025 12:18 You don't need to connect the three pins on the end, just the two lots of 20ish pins.

:thumbsup:

I'll get going on that next then!

cheers

Pro tip - don't mix up the bottle of ISO you use for washing flux from desoldered ICs with the bottle of ISO you use for cleaning your desk ring-light magnifier...

:slapface:

dml wrote: 28 Jun 2025 12:25 Pro tip - don't mix up the bottle of ISO you use for washing flux from desoldered ICs with the bottle of ISO you use for cleaning your desk ring-light magnifier...

:slapface:

Ouch! Those unlabeled caps too, what a nightmare haha. Deep in concentration and you drop a strip into the wrong tray :lol:

sety wrote: 28 Jun 2025 13:38 Ouch! Those unlabeled caps too, what a nightmare haha. Deep in concentration and you drop a strip into the wrong tray :lol:

Yeah I did end up with some anonymous strips hanging around afterwards and got a bit paranoid. But you can poke sharp probes through the film and check them without taking them out ;)

I was this years old before I found out that the shade of the SMD cap means something. For decoupling, the tan ones are in the right range.

I built the CKBD with no idea what value they were but it works just fine. ;)

As usual, I have only x1 of something that I need x3 of - and even finding that made a giant mess of my place!

Could the chips not be programmed in a normal programmer?