exxos's Atari, Amiga & retro forum

DoG wrote: 06 Oct 2021 15:47

Bikerbob wrote: 06 Oct 2021 15:30 HMMMM now I need to get the pcbs for those and it looks like the shifter board has some SMD work. crap.

IanSB did two version of the shifter board. The buffered one (with the SMD stuff on it) is only needed if the board you have (with CPLD) is going to be far away from it. If you are going to keep it fairly close you don't have to solder any SMD and just get the other shifter board.

Since all the guys using RGB2HDMI on an STe uses wires directly soldered in on the motherboard (ie without buffer logic) I think you would be fine using the non-buffer-shifter-board (puh!).

Thanks DoG, so I guess the next question is.. on the H5c1 we dont have all those resistor points around to grab signals from.. so I am best to use the shifter board.. IF I was to put this in my megaSTE.. then I would be soldering direct anyway. HMMMMMM

Bikerbob wrote: 06 Oct 2021 15:30 I understand Icky is doing one too.. which of course might fit this board better. I am open to that.

Yes - we are looking at the Phoenix Shifter H4/5 version that will fit nicely in the Shifter socket and places the HDMI port out the monitor hole in the case.

However my house move and the chip shortage has placed this project on hold. Here is an example of the board in situ - https://www.exxosforum.co.uk/forum/view ... 630#p71945

@Bikerbob As far as I can tell @DoG said there was a buffered & non-buffered shifter board, so it doesn't matter which you pick they both just plug into the shifter. So no soldering required.

FYI I tried the Pi RGB on the H5 and it works fine, but took it off because to be honest the VGA output of the H5 is *so* good, there isn't much of a need for HDMI. I put the Pi RGB into an ST instead, makes more sense.

Unbuffered. Here: https://github.com/IanSB/RGBtoHDMI/tree ... /V1/gerber

But there seem to be some development to do just one board that fits underneath the shifter and using the signals available there. Using the 16Mhz clock instead of vsync, hsync or csync. So much like the Amiga solution with a board underneath the Denise. No wires is needed then. Probably need a wire to blank signal though.

I am sorry I keep asking things like this.. maybe I need to know how to search better, where will I find a write up on using VGA on the board?

If I use VGA.. how do I get sound?

James

Bikerbob wrote: 06 Oct 2021 23:01 I am sorry I keep asking things like this.. maybe I need to know how to search better, where will I find a write up on using VGA on the board?

If I use VGA.. how do I get sound?

James

You can tap out the sound from the H5 board. I use a 3.5mm socket and I have it poking out the RF hole on the case. You can see it in the background of the following image

Icky wrote: 07 Oct 2021 12:20

Bikerbob wrote: 06 Oct 2021 23:01 I am sorry I keep asking things like this.. maybe I need to know how to search better, where will I find a write up on using VGA on the board?

If I use VGA.. how do I get sound?

James

You can tap out the sound from the H5 board. I use a 3.5mm socket and I have it poking out the RF hole on the case. You can see it in the background of the following image

Yes, I remember seeing that in another thread ICKY.. I will look again for it.. just have to find the points to grab the sound from.

IS the VGA port doing anything different than a RGB2VGA coverter?? is it cleaner? I am not using real atari monitor, so VGA would be better, but if its just the same.. then I have it in right now, and converters all over.

James

exxos wrote: 04 Oct 2021 16:22 Have you continuity checked the socket right back to where all the connections go to ? The schematic is published with all the wiring on it.

OK, so I just did this .. this morning.

external floppy pin 1 -> pin 19 1772 - good
pin 2 -> pin 21 Yam - good
pin 3 -> pin 26 1772 - good
pin 4 -> pin 24 1772 - good
pin 5 ->
pin 6 -> these are pin 19 or 20 yam depending on jumpers - good
pin 7 -> ground or pin 26 on 1772 - good
pin 8 -> pin 20 1772 - no good - good from external of port to solder joint.
pin 9 -> pin 17 1772 - no good - good from external of port to solder joint.
pin 10 -> pin 16 1772 - no good - good from external of port to solder joint.
pin 11 -> pin 22 1772 - no good - good from external of port to solder joint.
pin 12 -> pin 21 1772 - no good - good from external of port to solder joint.
pin 13 -> pin 23 1772 - good
pin 14 -> pin 25 1772 - good

So pins 8,9,10,11,12 I tried to get continuity from bottom of pcb to pins on 1772 - no good.

Ideas?

James

All of those signals go thru 33 ohm resistors and then the 75LS06 (IC16).

DoG wrote: 09 Oct 2021 16:50 All of those signals go thru 33 ohm resistors and then the 75LS06 (IC16).

ahh so you're saying I would not see continuity there. ok.

But no clue yet as to why I am not getting the external floppy working?

James