Re: Icky - Progress
Posted: 05 Oct 2018 17:17
To be clear when you say it will probably work with another 75R in series is that with or without the capacitor?
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To be clear when you say it will probably work with another 75R in series is that with or without the capacitor?
I mean with the capacitor and diode. I was just thinking of limiting the charge current to the capacitor a little. Even 33R will help take the edge of. Though depends what your TV is happy with how the voltage ends up.Icky wrote: 05 Oct 2018 17:17 To be clear when you say it will probably work with another 75R in series is that with or without the capacitor?
Thanksexxos wrote: 05 Oct 2018 17:18I mean with the capacitor and diode. I was just thinking of limiting the charge current to the capacitor a little. Even 33R will help take the edge of. Though depends what your TV is happy with how the voltage ends up.Icky wrote: 05 Oct 2018 17:17 To be clear when you say it will probably work with another 75R in series is that with or without the capacitor?
Ended up going down to a 47R. With 75R the flicker and bounce came back.
Cool! So worth noting 33R is probably a good value to go with ultimately.Icky wrote: 05 Oct 2018 19:02 Ended up going down to a 47R. With 75R the flicker and bounce came back.
Indeed - so that is one item knocked off my list. Cable sorted and flicker gone. However there is that noise as we have discussed. Won't be able to scope till tomorrow, non-atari duties are calling.
Be interesting to find out where the noise is coming from. My money is on the RGB drivers and the caps. There could be some glitches on the shifter output causing it and the caps "cover up" the problem on the design.Icky wrote: 05 Oct 2018 19:21 Indeed - so that is one item knocked off my list. Cable sorted and flicker gone. However there is that noise as we have discussed. Won't be able to scope till tomorrow, non-atari duties are calling.
Gone over it again - only one slight correction is on the actual image pin 7 should be GNDIcky wrote: 06 Oct 2018 00:58 I have been tracing the external floppy connector and unfortunately I think its wired wrong - could do with someone else checking.
I have been checking the pinouts with an original ST as well.
This is what I have found - the diagram on the right is how the STF Remake is wired to the socket and the one on the left is how it should be - I could stand corrected though.
Screen Shot 2018-10-06 at 01.29.06.png