exxos's Atari, Amiga & retro forum

Have been trying to find a cross-section of that socket type - it does look like it will be difficult to hook based on these snaps from a datasheet (I think its not too far from this design - surface mount versus thru-hole).

Extracting pins from the top may also be impractical (contradicting what I said above) as the pins may have have a horizontal part before the pin actually goes through the board.

Another, thru-hole version. This one looks easier to hook but I think you're dealing with something like the type above, which bends inwards then up. :/

dml wrote: 04 Sep 2025 14:43 Have been trying to find a cross-section of that socket type - it does look like it will be difficult to hook based on these snaps from a datasheet (I think its not too far from this design - surface mount versus thru-hole).

Extracting pins from the top may also be impractical (contradicting what I said above) as the pins may have have a horizontal part before the pin actually goes through the board.

Screenshot 2025-09-04 at 14.39.25.png

Screenshot 2025-09-04 at 14.40.27.png

First off, that socket in the first image is surface mount so not representative of the type used in the ST. Second, the 'funky' pin layout used in the Atari sockets is unlikely to allow pin removal from the top due to the strange layout of the socket pin to the matching PCB pin.

The second image is closer, but I'd suggest that unless you are following the guide, and hooking with a suitable tool as I described, you likely won't hook under the bottom of the contact and won'r be able to move it.

I specified pin headers in the article because they are the correct size to work and work well, so if you are using alternate tools your mileage may vary.

The procedure described works very well if you follow it and use the tool as described.

Also, and this is worst case scenario, if the bad contact feels loose in the socket it may have broken and dropped in. I don't think that is the case, but if it is then you may be unlucky and need to replace the socket.

IIRC if the socket is removed then you may be able to replace the pins with the equivalent pin from a pulled socket, however at that point replacing the socket is the better option if you have a suitable one to hand.

rubber_jonnie wrote: 04 Sep 2025 18:12 First off, that socket in the first image is surface mount so not representative of the type used in the ST. Second, the 'funky' pin layout used in the Atari sockets is unlikely to allow pin removal from the top due to the strange layout of the socket pin to the matching PCB pin.

Yep agreed, I tried to address both of those problems in the post, if maybe not very clearly. The surfacemount version has pins curled in a similar way to the sockets in ijor's photo, even if the socket type itself is wrong.

The thru-hole version is closer socket-wise but the pins are not curled under in the diagram as they seem to be in the photos.

However it is difficult to be really sure about the pin curling from the photos. Hopefuly ijor can figure out that part and have some success with the right kind of tool....

dml wrote: 04 Sep 2025 18:23

rubber_jonnie wrote: 04 Sep 2025 18:12 First off, that socket in the first image is surface mount so not representative of the type used in the ST. Second, the 'funky' pin layout used in the Atari sockets is unlikely to allow pin removal from the top due to the strange layout of the socket pin to the matching PCB pin.

Yep agreed, I tried to address both of those problems in the post, if maybe not very clearly. The surfacemount version has pins curled in a similar way to the sockets in ijor's photo, even if the socket type itself is wrong.

The thru-hole version is closer socket-wise but the pins are not curled under in the diagram as they seem to be in the photos.

However it is difficult to be really sure about the pin curling from the photos. Hopefuly ijor can figure out that part and have some success with the right kind of tool....

Not much else I can say, I know my tool works just fine I've fixed a lot of sockets with it. It's one of those things that is hard to speculate on unless you can see it in the flesh.

You also need to be careful as too much fiddling with the contacts can work harden the metal and cause them to break.

dml wrote: 04 Sep 2025 14:22 Definitely need a much smaller hook though. Tip not more than <2mm from the bend.

exxos wrote: 04 Sep 2025 14:38 Also your pin needs more of a C-shaped hook. Yours is more like a L-shaped currently.

Let me see if I understand. You want me to make a C-shaped hook smaller than 2mm? And just to be clear, the C should better be like Lucida Font, or Helvetica? :)

Como on people. What kind of artist do you think I am!? :) I honestly admire your craftsmanship and that you can build something like this. But this is starting to be far beyond my artistic capabilities, even with the proper tools. I will see if my sun can help me. He is more talented for this kind of work.

rubber_jonnie wrote: 04 Sep 2025 18:12 First off, that socket in the first image is surface mount so not representative of the type used in the ST. Second,

As you can see from my pic, this is not exactly an ST, but a small adapter board. I assume the sockets are still the same as the ones used on the ST, but @exxos should know better than me?

rubber_jonnie wrote: 04 Sep 2025 18:12 I specified pin headers in the article because they are the correct size to work and work well, so if you are using alternate tools your mileage may vary.

Aren't pin headers much bigger than sewing pins? Or may be sewing pins, being thinner, are better when you need to hook from the sides? Or you don't think that hooking from the sides is a good idea?

@ijor they are not the funky sockets which was used on the ST, they are just standard PLCC sockets.

The idea of the C- bend, is you push the sewing pin under the socket pin, then you basically rotate the C- tip (moving the sewing pin downwards) then this moves the tip upwards so you can hook under socket pin.

The pin as you have it won't hook upwards because it's basically a right angle. It's basically doing the same job as just sticking in a straight pin.. There's no "hook" to grab hold of the socket pin.

Another method is just use a straight pin and push it down the side of the socket pin, then gently bend the socket pin outwards. I've done it that way a fair bit. You just have to be careful to not apply to much force that you bend the pin sideways..

I could probably demonstrate both methods in a simple video... But I'm away from home until probably monday afternoon now.

ijor wrote: 04 Sep 2025 19:37
Aren't pin headers much bigger than sewing pins? Or may be sewing pins, being thinner, are better when you need to hook from the sides? Or you don't think that hooking from the sides is a good idea?

No, they are exactly the right size, I don't use pins because they are sharp and can damage both the contact and the plastic.

I've done it enough times to figure this out.

I would use this version of dental tool but it might be to long/large: To me it looks like the end of the tip on the pins in the plcc socket is broken off. Or are they actually pressed in that much now?