exxos's Atari, Amiga & retro forum

Nice job :thumbup:

Now we need to see the obligatory screenshot of your favourite game on your H5 :)

exxos wrote: 10 Sep 2021 19:47 Well done!

Thank you! :D

exxos wrote: 10 Sep 2021 19:47 Solder the HD wire on the drive like below, this is the MPF920 drive.

I have connected the wire as instructed and HD auto-switching works great now, thanks!

exxos wrote: 10 Sep 2021 19:47 I assume you have a bad connection on your slot1 somewhere. Connecting the wire as you've described is all you should need to do. Check the address lines, DTACK,AS.

Indeed, I had a cold solder-joint on pin #47, one of the address-lines.
Reworked it, checked all other pins - connected the booster - aaaaand voila, TOS 2.06 is working!
Did a run of GEMBench and YAART again in TOS 2.06, all fine there, too.
Additionally I tried runnning the latest EmuTOS 1.1.1 and this also works fine!

Thank you for your support! :yay2:

Here are some photos:

JezC wrote: 10 Sep 2021 22:22 @CeRiAl Congratulations on getting your H5 to work! I've still not had the time to find the issue with the floppy accesses on mine but maybe over the next few days...

Thank you @JezC! :D

I hope you get your floppy problem sorted out soon, too!

Badwolf wrote: 10 Sep 2021 23:36

CeRiAl wrote: 10 Sep 2021 19:26 It's alive! :yay:

Top work!

:bravo:

BW

Thank you @Badwolf! 8-)

Icky wrote: 11 Sep 2021 10:44 Nice job :thumbup:

Now we need to see the obligatory screenshot of your favourite game on your H5 :)

Thank you @Icky!

Regarding the screenshot or photo:
I still need to get one final fix done before doing this - the audio-fix. Right now I'm desperately looking for a 10K resistor here at home!

Because I think it would be quite embarrassing to post a photo or screenshot of my favorite game here without the sound working, don't you think? :lol:

:bravo: other resistor values may work as well.. 47k and 100k probably work as well.

exxos wrote: 11 Sep 2021 18:05 :bravo: other resistor values may work as well.. 47k and 100k probably work as well.

Thank you! :)

I have made some progress:
Today my new set of resistors arrived (this order was due anyway), and I could finally place a 100k resistor to fix the sound issue.
Also, my X2GS arrived this week, so I installed it, too.

This should bring my H5 into the game, sound-wise! 8-)

And indeed, sound works now (favorite game screenshot will follow! :D ), but it seems to be quite quiet compared to my original Atari.
Is there a way to fix this? Maybe using another resistor value?

Also, I decided to put some life back into my booster (couldn't watch that 68k CPU sitting unused in the corner), so I put a socket on top again.
I have tested everything after placing the socket, normal operation as a TOS decoder still works fine.

Then I removed the onboard PLCC CPU, placed the DIP-68k on the booster, but when I turn the machine on I only get a white screen.
At this point I have still bridged the solder points for 8 MHz, but I did not connect the booster to the Shifter yet, so maybe this is the reason for the white screen?
Also, I noticed that I broke the small SMT part (resistor?) between the legs of the socket on the bottom side. :oops:

How can I bring the booster back to life, can I replace the broken SMT somehow?
Is there a dedicated place to connect the booster to the shifter on the H5, or should I just connect it directly to pin 39?

Thank you for your help! :)

CeRiAl wrote: 17 Sep 2021 14:06 but it seems to be quite quiet compared to my original Atari.
Is there a way to fix this? Maybe using another resistor value?

There is nothing which needs fixing on the board as far as I know. Nobody has reported a low volume, but it sounds the same volume on my TV as original machines. So I don't know why you would have that problem.

CeRiAl wrote: 17 Sep 2021 14:06 How can I bring the booster back to life, can I replace the broken SMT somehow?

Afraid I do not know, because I do not know what you broke. It is not something I have however attempted to repair. If it is in that bad of state I would suggest you just get a new booster.

CeRiAl wrote: 17 Sep 2021 14:06 Is there a dedicated place to connect the booster to the shifter on the H5, or should I just connect it directly to pin 39?

Pin 39 is the simplest solution.

exxos wrote: 17 Sep 2021 14:21 There is nothing which needs fixing on the board as far as I know. Nobody has reported a low volume, but it sounds the same volume on my TV as original machines. So I don't know why you would have that problem.

Okay thank you, I will try again without the X2GS placed to rule out that this is the problem somehow (as I understand the output of the S2-Midi-Synth is also connected to the sound output, so it's worth a try I think).

exxos wrote: 17 Sep 2021 14:21 Afraid I do not know, because I do not know what you broke. It is not something I have however attempted to repair. If it is in that bad of state I would suggest you just get a new booster.

You are right, I wasn't very exact with my description, should have added a photo of the part I meant - here it is now:


I was talking about the small SMT part between the legs 17/18 on the bottom (when counting from the left).

exxos wrote: 17 Sep 2021 14:21 Pin 39 is the simplest solution.

Great, thank you! :)

CeRiAl wrote: 17 Sep 2021 14:41 Okay thank you, I will try again without the X2GS placed to rule out that this is the problem somehow (as I understand the output of the S2-Midi-Synth is also connected to the sound output, so it's worth a try I think).

What value resistor did you actually fit?

CeRiAl wrote: 17 Sep 2021 14:41 I was talking about the small SMT part between the legs 17/18 on the bottom (when counting from the left).

It might just be a 33pF capacitor, but I don't honestly remember ever fitting them.