exxos's Atari, Amiga & retro forum

This is actually interesting using 0.35mm for the nozzle.. as the XY is now 25mm (should be 24.5mm) and Z is 3.15mm (should be 3mm) but the bottom layer gaps are still there just the same.

I tried increasing the flow rate 30%...

Increase the temperature to 225c (using PLA)


Starting to get a globby mess, but the print does look better, but now it has developed some other fault where it sounds like the extruder drive is slipping :roll:

I am starting to wonder if there is not actually a problem with flow rate but the steps per axis which I previously battled with. I already have compensation on one axis. But as the print is coming out about 0.5mm to large for a 24.50mm print , Wonder if the steps per axis is just simply too large causing the gaps.

Starting to think I should get my old i3 out of the loft which I had never ending problems with, and giving that another bash.

exxos wrote: 04 Jul 2021 13:08 Looks like there are firmware hacks to do stuff https://github.com/moonglow/FlashForge_ ... tion-guide

Mate, I think it's time to go down this road.

That printer is so wonky, I think you've got to get into its firmware. If you can get Marlin onto it (as per that guide), and it's not a genuine hardware fault, you *will* be able to get it working. Set aside a full afternoon to bootstrap it, though.

Right now, you're Father Ted trying to knock the dent out his borrowed motor!

After that ask it to print thin, flat rectangle 3/4 the size of the plate and get a-measurin'. A long baseline needed to work out steps per mm.

As a ferinstance and not directly related to the problem you're seeing, my (shitty cheap) i3 clone has a problem where the left and right y-axis bars aren't quite straight to each other. As the print head moves in +x, the whole mechanism tilts forwards. Because the z-probe is mounted at the front of the carriage, as it droops forwards, it thinks the bed is getting much closer than it is to the nozzle (the bed is getting closer, but it's farther up the lever arm -- ie. it overcompensates).

This would be a nightmare to fix physically. It's probably just a slight warp in a couple of parts of the frame, but which ones and how to remedy it?

But with access to the firmware I can just add a linear z-probe offset fudge equation, dependent on the value of x. Job's a good one.

Use the (open) source, Luke!

BW

Got the i3 running.. its doing much better with default settings, just a tiny bit to wide..





Been trying to update the firmware to Marlin but this arduino crap just keeps on failing to compile and haven't got time or patience to mess about with it all.

I will see if I can update the firmware in the flash forge...

Got the firmware program installed... There is no apparent explanation as to what all these binary files actually all for :roll:


EDIT:
ahhh https://github.com/moonglow/FlashForge_ ... ussions/43

EDIT2:
Programming went fine.. now the printer is stuck in a rebooting loop.. why am I not surprised :roll:


EDIT3:
So the fancy GUI needs more "Stuff" then :roll: https://github.com/moonglow/FlashForge_ ... ussions/28

EDIT3:
ohhh shiny..


EDIT4:
Problem now is there does not seem to be any profiles for Dreamer running Marlin :roll:

FFS!


According to this page some of the commands are different or do the complete opposite to what they are supposed to do :roll:

https://github.com/moonglow/FlashForge_ ... re-G-Codes

Found the command page here so having to go through them and translate them all :roll:

https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M109.html

Making progress now ...


Got the bed almost at the right position...

Badwolf wrote: 13 Aug 2021 13:51 Set aside a full afternoon to bootstrap it, though.

;)

Making progress, though. Keep going. :-)

BW

Got my test square printed out and it looks pretty much the same as it did originally although it does look a bit neater.

I need to figure out how to calibrate the axis properly next..

exxos wrote: 13 Aug 2021 17:37 Got my test square printed out and it looks pretty much the same as it did originally although it does look a bit neater.

I need to figure out how to calibrate the axis properly next..

Cool. At least now you *can* calibrate it.

Does look like under-extrusion, though. You can use a "proper" slicer now. I'd give that a go before you start hacking firmware, though. Some slicers wind the wick right in on the extrusion multiplier to make things look more elegant. This one may have gone too far.

The other (physical) thing to check with under (or variable) extrusion is that the extruder nut is actually tight on the stepper shaft. I had a problem with mine for months once where I was screwing onto the round bit rather than the flattened piece. Intermittent slippage. Doh!

BW

Badwolf wrote: 13 Aug 2021 17:44 Cool. At least now you *can* calibrate it.

You would think :roll: I am trying to get it to print on the right head as it is currently loaded with PLA. So I swapped all the settings and tools over seems to heat up correctly etc. The only problem instead of extruding filament, it is retracting it :pullhair: :headbang: So I have no idea what is going on with that as the left side worked perfectly well :roll:


EDIT:

ah known fault it seems https://github.com/moonglow/FlashForge_Marlin/issues/46