Re: Questions from noob about new motherboard
Posted: 23 Jul 2024 12:52
-----
First things first. Watch that PSU. You don't want a shock from that bad boy! If it doesn't kill you, it's Gona hurt and burn you!
Be aware of a shock risk from the power supply. Mains voltage. Be absolutely careful to check you are diagnosing safely. Disconnect and remove the PSU and remove the mainboard for visual inspection
-----
Best guess well...
It's bombing out so CPU side may be ok if it's able to show a bomb icon. You could try checking if any of the ram chips are overly hot to touch. As another poster mentioned it could be very likely the cause.
Any short circuits on keyboard and mouse sockets? Any pins bent anywhere else that could potentially short?
Check for cracked traces.
Discolouration or cracked components?
Can you send high res pictures of the board both front and back so we can visually check for obvious segregation.
Any leaking capacitors? The big 4000uf (I think that's what it is) on the main board is a cap that needs to be replaced more often than not.
Power the board up SAFELY using the PSU and use the handle of a screwdriver to tap the board, you may find a dry solder joint by tapping.
Disclaimer: I only have an NVQ2 in micro electronics from over thirty years ago so my advice may be incorrect! And likely is incorrect.
First things first. Watch that PSU. You don't want a shock from that bad boy! If it doesn't kill you, it's Gona hurt and burn you!
Be aware of a shock risk from the power supply. Mains voltage. Be absolutely careful to check you are diagnosing safely. Disconnect and remove the PSU and remove the mainboard for visual inspection
-----
Best guess well...
It's bombing out so CPU side may be ok if it's able to show a bomb icon. You could try checking if any of the ram chips are overly hot to touch. As another poster mentioned it could be very likely the cause.
Any short circuits on keyboard and mouse sockets? Any pins bent anywhere else that could potentially short?
Check for cracked traces.
Discolouration or cracked components?
Can you send high res pictures of the board both front and back so we can visually check for obvious segregation.
Any leaking capacitors? The big 4000uf (I think that's what it is) on the main board is a cap that needs to be replaced more often than not.
Power the board up SAFELY using the PSU and use the handle of a screwdriver to tap the board, you may find a dry solder joint by tapping.
Disclaimer: I only have an NVQ2 in micro electronics from over thirty years ago so my advice may be incorrect! And likely is incorrect.