exxos's Atari, Amiga & retro forum

terriblefire wrote: 14 May 2020 12:41 EC = No MMU = No fast IDE.

Everything else there is not really any guarantee of what you are getting. Dont get things actually marked < 33Mhz

Good to know! Ill build myself a card and a riser first, and then order the CPUs so I atleast can test them and return IF not working.
I guess all the new rev 2 risers are sold already so I might just make/buy the simpler kipper v6 riser first while waiting for the release of your newest.

Is the "no MMU = No fast IDE" a terriblefire thing, or for all Amiga accelerator cards?

matt020 wrote: 14 May 2020 14:09 Is the "no MMU = No fast IDE" a terriblefire thing, or for all Amiga accelerator cards?

This applies to the A500 only, or other 16-bit machines - no real difference on the CD32. So for the TF53x you should always use the full 68030.

matt020 wrote: 14 May 2020 14:09 Is the "no MMU = No fast IDE" a terriblefire thing, or for all Amiga accelerator cards?

You can work around it by loading you scsi.device into fast ram. I dont support maprom is why.

Awesome, this is exactly the things I was looking for :D. So that I dont mix n match wrong things.

Is regards to fake chips, does anyone know if isopropyl alcohol removes the white print on genuine 68030RP33Bs? Other chips like ceramic 060s where most text is etched, the white print in top right corner seems resilient from what I've seen. Or perhaps the counterfeiters have started using alcohol resistant print now? Easiest to tell is when the whole chip top is repainted in water based paint before reprint :)

richx wrote: 14 May 2020 23:54 Is regards to fake chips, does anyone know if isopropyl alcohol removes the white print on genuine 68030RP33Bs? Other chips like ceramic 060s where most text is etched, the white print in top right corner seems resilient from what I've seen. Or perhaps the counterfeiters have started using alcohol resistant print now? Easiest to tell is when the whole chip top is repainted in water based paint before reprint :)

They normally "blacktop" the fake IC and then laser etch the fake numbers. Acetone will remove the blacktop. If you're lucky you might even be able to see what the IC really is, if they haven't sanded it off.

richx wrote: 14 May 2020 23:54 Is regards to fake chips, does anyone know if isopropyl alcohol removes the white print on genuine 68030RP33Bs? Other chips like ceramic 060s where most text is etched, the white print in top right corner seems resilient from what I've seen. Or perhaps the counterfeiters have started using alcohol resistant print now? Easiest to tell is when the whole chip top is repainted in water based paint before reprint :)

For £6 delivered I don't think there is big gain and market for repainting to 33B variants. I bought like 3 from ebay and all work as expected. And as expected they are not doing that at 50mhz.
50B I bought one from ebay, it did look like brand new, like it was repainted, but is very solid at 50mhz - for the price £20 deliverd. I think it is genuine.

060 - ask Chucky if he would sell you one. Imho it is simply too much money for a Chinese parts roulette.

the 33mhz & 40mhz variants, are they supposed to work stable clocked at 50mhz? I have seen at a couple of placec that ppl comment that they wont work at 50mhz.. Should they? :?:

OH Man I cant wait to try the TF330 out!! Just repaired my CD32 and its ready to rock! It feels like christmas :D
Bought it complete (WO box) in non booting state. But a full recap and 1 patched trace later it runs like a charm!

bought 2x 1084 monitors and 1x CM-8833 also, So I can the setups up and ready.

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