Since I am about to upgrade my GG to an IPS screen, I have been looking for help with the 'wire free' upgrade, but there seems to be little information, even on Benn Venns website about how to do it.
I have figured it out, and prepped the GG as per the online docs: Wired install instructions
So here we are ready to get stared:
Once I get going I'll take some close up images of what I did based on the images here: Ribbon shop page
Hopefully I can make it a bit more obvious where the solder points are, as it isn't blindingly obvious due to the pictures available, and the fact that the ribbon is one size fits all, but I've done some buzzing out of the ribbon and it is looking more obvious to me.
More pics and detail to follow.
Game Gear - Benn Venn IPS Screen replacement
- rubber_jonnie
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Game Gear - Benn Venn IPS Screen replacement
Collector of many retro things!
800XL and 65XE both with Ultimate1MB,VBXL/XE & PokeyMax, SIDE3, SDrive Max, 2x 1010 cassette, 2x 1050 one with Happy mod, 3x 2600 Jr, 7800 and Lynx II
Approx 20 STs, including a 520 STM, 520 STFMs, 3x Mega ST, MSTE & 2x 32 Mhz boosted STEs
Plus the rest, totalling around 50 machines including a QL, 3x BBC Model B, Electron, Spectrums, ZX81 etc...
800XL and 65XE both with Ultimate1MB,VBXL/XE & PokeyMax, SIDE3, SDrive Max, 2x 1010 cassette, 2x 1050 one with Happy mod, 3x 2600 Jr, 7800 and Lynx II
Approx 20 STs, including a 520 STM, 520 STFMs, 3x Mega ST, MSTE & 2x 32 Mhz boosted STEs
Plus the rest, totalling around 50 machines including a QL, 3x BBC Model B, Electron, Spectrums, ZX81 etc...
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Re: Game Gear - Benn Venn IPS Screen replacement
Good luck!
Intro retro computers since before they were retro...
ZX81->Spectrum->Memotech MTX->Sinclair QL->520STM->BBC Micro->TT030->PCs & Sun Workstations.
Added code to the MiNT kernel (still there the last time I checked) + put together MiNTOS.
Collection now with added Macs, Amigas, Suns and Acorns.
ZX81->Spectrum->Memotech MTX->Sinclair QL->520STM->BBC Micro->TT030->PCs & Sun Workstations.
Added code to the MiNT kernel (still there the last time I checked) + put together MiNTOS.
Collection now with added Macs, Amigas, Suns and Acorns.
- rubber_jonnie
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- Posts: 9589
- Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2017 7:40 pm
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Re: Game Gear - Benn Venn IPS Screen replacement
Thanks!!
The mechanical install of the screen is pretty simple but you do have to install the ribbon on the back first due to the position of one of the ribbons 'tentacles'.
Collector of many retro things!
800XL and 65XE both with Ultimate1MB,VBXL/XE & PokeyMax, SIDE3, SDrive Max, 2x 1010 cassette, 2x 1050 one with Happy mod, 3x 2600 Jr, 7800 and Lynx II
Approx 20 STs, including a 520 STM, 520 STFMs, 3x Mega ST, MSTE & 2x 32 Mhz boosted STEs
Plus the rest, totalling around 50 machines including a QL, 3x BBC Model B, Electron, Spectrums, ZX81 etc...
800XL and 65XE both with Ultimate1MB,VBXL/XE & PokeyMax, SIDE3, SDrive Max, 2x 1010 cassette, 2x 1050 one with Happy mod, 3x 2600 Jr, 7800 and Lynx II
Approx 20 STs, including a 520 STM, 520 STFMs, 3x Mega ST, MSTE & 2x 32 Mhz boosted STEs
Plus the rest, totalling around 50 machines including a QL, 3x BBC Model B, Electron, Spectrums, ZX81 etc...
- rubber_jonnie
- Site Admin
- Posts: 9589
- Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2017 7:40 pm
- Location: Essex
- Contact:
Re: Game Gear - Benn Venn IPS Screen replacement
Ok, so here we go with the what's connected to where guide for this mod. As it goes it's not too hard to do. Note this is for VA0 and VA1 mainboards only AFAIK. The screen itself is available for most GG variants, but the 'no wires' ribbon isn't available for all.
NOTE: The 'no wires' ribbon has several T10 pigtails and a clock pigtail. These can be cut off if they are not needed for your board. I chose not to do that, but rather just insulate them with tape. Either method is valid, but don't cut them off until you've checked wether you need them or not.
Also, be aware that you are soldering a plastic ribbon, so don't dwell too long with the iron
First off, once you've got the disassembly done and removed the old screen, and cleaned up as advised, then you need to get the ribbon fixed to the connector where the old screen was connected as below:
If the board has a '1' silk screened on it, this should be lined up with the first pin of the ribbon. If there is no '1' on the board, it is the 6th pin in from the left. Tape the ribbon down to the PCB and carefully solder the ribbon to the edge connector as per the picture and make sure there are no shorts. Note pin 1 and 2 are connected together, this is fine.
Line the little pigtail up with the 2nd pin along of the top row of the cartridge port, and solder that onto the same pin. Fold over the long piece of ribbon cable to M10 and M11 on the PCB and solder the two connections as per the picture.. Tape down for good measure.
Next flip over the board and bend the ribbon over. Locate T10 on the PCB, and the small via in the middle of the ribbon:
And using something to hold the ribbon close to the board, solder the via in the ribbon to T10. There is a little pigtail you can use to connect to T10 instead, but I chose to use the via:
And completed:
Next solder the ribbon to the back of the new display as per the picture:
And then locate FB1 on the motherboard:
And solder the large via in the ribbon marked 'CLK' to that.
One final item, which was a gotcha for me was a connection from the right hand side of C38 to *1 on the ribbon cable as below:
It's the green wire in this image. If you don't do this the screen will cycle through the 4 scaling modes and you won't be able to use the GG. This is shown as a long ribbon cable pigtail in the images I've seen, but it isn't on the ribbon I have, and my kit didn't contain such an additional ribbon.
Before reassembly, you need to remove the rubber surround on the inside and trim off 8 little plastic nubs, plus the post for the security screw. The Benn Venn instructions I linked to earlier give details of this.
Also, the metal shield has some fingers as seen here:
And these need to be trimmed off, though in my case I folded them under and flattened them down before reinstalling the shield:
This is necessary because the case won't fit with the fingers as they are, since they catch on the new display.
And all that's left then is to reassemble. Note there is a 3d printed frame in the kit, it's fairly obvious where this goes as it holds the display in place on the front of the PCB.
Screen quality is overall very nice and bright:
You can add/remove scanlines by holding Start and pressing up/down and you can change the screen modes by holding the start button, which will cycle through them.
Next I think I need to look at a replacement screen bezel as mine is quite badly scratched, though I may try and polish it first, and the amplifier is pretty poor, so I will recap it, and if it is still rubbish, then I'll replace with a modern one.
Overall pretty pleased with the upgrade, just annoying that the 'no wires' ribbon install wasn't well documented, but hopefully this will go someway to address that.
NOTE: The 'no wires' ribbon has several T10 pigtails and a clock pigtail. These can be cut off if they are not needed for your board. I chose not to do that, but rather just insulate them with tape. Either method is valid, but don't cut them off until you've checked wether you need them or not.
Also, be aware that you are soldering a plastic ribbon, so don't dwell too long with the iron
First off, once you've got the disassembly done and removed the old screen, and cleaned up as advised, then you need to get the ribbon fixed to the connector where the old screen was connected as below:
If the board has a '1' silk screened on it, this should be lined up with the first pin of the ribbon. If there is no '1' on the board, it is the 6th pin in from the left. Tape the ribbon down to the PCB and carefully solder the ribbon to the edge connector as per the picture and make sure there are no shorts. Note pin 1 and 2 are connected together, this is fine.
Line the little pigtail up with the 2nd pin along of the top row of the cartridge port, and solder that onto the same pin. Fold over the long piece of ribbon cable to M10 and M11 on the PCB and solder the two connections as per the picture.. Tape down for good measure.
Next flip over the board and bend the ribbon over. Locate T10 on the PCB, and the small via in the middle of the ribbon:
And using something to hold the ribbon close to the board, solder the via in the ribbon to T10. There is a little pigtail you can use to connect to T10 instead, but I chose to use the via:
And completed:
Next solder the ribbon to the back of the new display as per the picture:
And then locate FB1 on the motherboard:
And solder the large via in the ribbon marked 'CLK' to that.
One final item, which was a gotcha for me was a connection from the right hand side of C38 to *1 on the ribbon cable as below:
It's the green wire in this image. If you don't do this the screen will cycle through the 4 scaling modes and you won't be able to use the GG. This is shown as a long ribbon cable pigtail in the images I've seen, but it isn't on the ribbon I have, and my kit didn't contain such an additional ribbon.
Before reassembly, you need to remove the rubber surround on the inside and trim off 8 little plastic nubs, plus the post for the security screw. The Benn Venn instructions I linked to earlier give details of this.
Also, the metal shield has some fingers as seen here:
And these need to be trimmed off, though in my case I folded them under and flattened them down before reinstalling the shield:
This is necessary because the case won't fit with the fingers as they are, since they catch on the new display.
And all that's left then is to reassemble. Note there is a 3d printed frame in the kit, it's fairly obvious where this goes as it holds the display in place on the front of the PCB.
Screen quality is overall very nice and bright:
You can add/remove scanlines by holding Start and pressing up/down and you can change the screen modes by holding the start button, which will cycle through them.
Next I think I need to look at a replacement screen bezel as mine is quite badly scratched, though I may try and polish it first, and the amplifier is pretty poor, so I will recap it, and if it is still rubbish, then I'll replace with a modern one.
Overall pretty pleased with the upgrade, just annoying that the 'no wires' ribbon install wasn't well documented, but hopefully this will go someway to address that.
Collector of many retro things!
800XL and 65XE both with Ultimate1MB,VBXL/XE & PokeyMax, SIDE3, SDrive Max, 2x 1010 cassette, 2x 1050 one with Happy mod, 3x 2600 Jr, 7800 and Lynx II
Approx 20 STs, including a 520 STM, 520 STFMs, 3x Mega ST, MSTE & 2x 32 Mhz boosted STEs
Plus the rest, totalling around 50 machines including a QL, 3x BBC Model B, Electron, Spectrums, ZX81 etc...
800XL and 65XE both with Ultimate1MB,VBXL/XE & PokeyMax, SIDE3, SDrive Max, 2x 1010 cassette, 2x 1050 one with Happy mod, 3x 2600 Jr, 7800 and Lynx II
Approx 20 STs, including a 520 STM, 520 STFMs, 3x Mega ST, MSTE & 2x 32 Mhz boosted STEs
Plus the rest, totalling around 50 machines including a QL, 3x BBC Model B, Electron, Spectrums, ZX81 etc...